🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.